Why We Love Lyocell (and You Should Too!)

Lyocell is showing up everywhere: from fast fashion brands (H&M, for example, has created garments in 100% lyocell) to ethical and sustainable brands (Nu-in, People Tree, and Organic Basics just to name a few), almost all fashion brands use this plant-based sustainable fiber.

It actually made its first appearance in 1972 and soon became very popular in the USA first and later in the EU too. The global lyocell fiber market reached a value of US$ 1.04 billion in 2020 and is expected to reach a value of US$ 1.6 billion by 2026. 

But is lyocell really sustainable as they say? The short answer is yes, lyocell is a sustainable fiber. The longer answer is that several types of lyocell exist and they may not have the same sustainability score and that – as it happens with everything else – positive and bright aspects are always followed by negative and dark ones also worthy of being known.

Let’s try to figure this out!

What is lyocell and how it’s made?

In a nutshell, lyocell is a plant-based fiber that comes from the wood pulp of eucalyptus trees, even though you can find lyocell made of oak, bamboo, and birch trees too. Thanks to its high versatility and other properties – antibacterial, thermoregulatory, etc. – lyocell can be turned in all sorts of clothing – from basics to dresses to sportswear and underwear – but also in beddings, tablecloths, towels, and even medical dressings.

Lyocell owes much of its fame and reputation also to its eco-friendly production process. Usually lyocell – and this is especially true for Tencel Lenzing, which we’ll be talking more about later on – is made from wood harvested from natural forests and sustainably managed tree farms. Basically, the tree trunks are cut into small pieces that are then dissolved by a non-toxic amine oxide solution so that wood pulp is obtained. Once washed, the pulp is transformed into cellulose which is then turned into thin fibers through spinnerets.

As you can guess, there’s much more to say on why lyocell is a sustainable fiber. Let’s take a look!

Lyocell vs rayon: two sides of the same coin?

Did you know that lyocell is a variant of rayon but, unlike the latter, it has a minimal environmental impact? Wait, what?! Yeah, I know… it sounds a bit confusing, but no worries, let’s go step by step.

Before humans figured out how to manipulate natural fibers to their liking, all fabrics were “natural”. By “natural fabric” I mean cotton, hemp, linen but also animal derivatives such as silk, wool, and even leather. As you can see, these fibers are just like that, they don’t need (too many) chemical processes to be turned into something else, if that makes sense. And no, we’re not saying that these “natural” fibers are not polluting – that’s not quite the aim of this article – we’re just saying that they don’t undergo much chemical variation.

At some point in our evolutionary history, we managed to turn other natural resources – trees and stems, for example – into what are today generally called “man-made fibers”. But hey, why didn’t we include these fibers in the “natural” ones above? After all, you might be wondering, with the exception of animal derivatives, they all come from plants! Yes, this is a good point! However, resources like bamboo and eucalyptus, can’t be worn as they are: they need chemical processes – often anything but sustainable – to be transformed into textile fibers.

Of all artificial or “man-made fibers”, rayon or viscose is by far the most widely diffused and it again comes from wood pulp. However, rayon needs so many and strenuous chemical processes to be made into fiber that we can’t really say it’s a natural (and sustainable!) material. However, there are different types of rayon, and lyocell is the most sustainable of them. Curious to know more?

A semi-synthetic plant-based fiber: oxymoron or what?

Lyocell – and the same goes for all rayon varieties – is a semi-synthetic fiber since it is neither synthetic nor is it a fully natural fiber. You got it right: lyocell is a plant-based fiber that we can’t categorize as “natural” in the most common sense of the term since it is actually made in a laboratory using chemicals.

But just because something is labeled as “synthetic” doesn’t mean that it’s not natural or derived from natural resources. Indeed, lyocell is simply a fiber of natural origin that needs artificial treatments to be produced. So why are we talking about it? Because everything in lyocell production – from growing trees to using non-toxic and reusable chemicals – suggests it’s a sustainable fiber.

Lyocell, Tencel, or Lenzing? Let’s clear things up!

We’re halfway and at this point one last clarification is due: not all lyocell is the same. As mentioned, Lyocell was developed in the 1970s as a more costly yet more sustainable variation of rayon. The patent was then bought by Lenzing AG, a company from Austria, and today we know lyocell mainly as “Tencel” which is its trade name. Yes indeed, what is usually called “Tencel” is actually lyocell produced by Lenzing.

So Lyocell, Tencel, or Lenzing actually mean the same thing. But why is this clarification so crucial? Well, there’s one main (huge) difference between Tencel lyocell made by Lenzing and other types of lyocell: Lenzing is very committed to the ethical and sustainable sourcing of their wood so that their fabrics come with several certifications to prove it. In 2000, the company also won the technology award for sustainable development for “European development starting a new era in cellulose fibre production”.

As such, looking for the label Tencel is the only way to be 100% sure that the clothes you’re buying are made from ethical and sustainable fibers produced by certified companies. However, the time has finally come to discuss why and how lyocell is good for the environment!

Lyocell’s bright sides…

We made it! Now you know what exactly lyocell – or Tencel – is! Let’s now focus on why and how this semi-synthetic, man-made, artificial, and plant-based fiber is special and good for the environment:

• It all starts with trees. Eucalyptus trees grow at a lightning-fast speed in well-managed forests and, above all, they don’t require pesticides and too much water to thrive. Also, the lands used for eucalyptus are no longer fit for food.
• The water-saving continues even at home thanks to lyocell’s high breathability. You can be sure that your lyocell garments won’t absorb odors as quickly as other fabrics and won’t need to be washed as frequently!
• Lyocell production is what is called a “closed loop” manufacturing process as it doesn’t create harmful by-products and waste. Obviously, it involves the use of chemicals but these are non-toxic and can also be used repeatedly. For instance, the main solvent used is amine oxide, which is made from bio-renewable resources, isn’t harmful, and is totally recyclable. Believe it or not, 99,5% of the solvents used in the lyocell spinning process are recycled and reused over and over again.
• Lyocell is biodegradable and compostable. However, this is true if and only if it is not blended with other fibers that aren’t naturally biodegradable.
• Lyocell not only requires less water but also less energy. Indeed, its production is much shorter and simpler than other man-made fibers, and the whole process – from chopping the wood down to the carding – only takes a few hours.
• It’s a 100% vegan fiber: as you know, our idea of sustainable fashion can’t rule out animal welfare. If it’s true that the environment and workers deserve to be protected and that they don’t have to pay for our vanity – because yes, fashion is basically vanity – it’s also true that animals deserve the same respect and treatment. We love lyocell because it’s a great vegan alternative to silk thanks to its incredible softness and silkiness. But hey, if you’re looking for vegan clothes, always read the label as lyocell if often blended with silk and/or wool.

… and dark sides

According to us, the main disadvantages of lyocell – more than offset by advantages, tho – are essentially three:

• Higher price: it’s undeniable, garments made only from lyocell are more expensive than others. Despite being more energy-efficient, the lyocell’s manufacturing process is more complicated, requires specific and advanced technology and therefore the overall costs are higher for companies and for consumers too. It’s true, lyocell will cost you more, but we encourage buying lyocell items because they’re made to last for years and the price is definitely worth it.
  Check out our post about the concept of cost per wear to learn more: Cost Per Wear: The True Cost Of Your Clothes
• Fiber blends: lyocell is very suitable for blends with other fibers, such as cotton, wool, silk, polyester, and even acrylic just to mention some. Products made with a blend of lyocell and other fabrics can be cheaper at times, but they may not have the same performance and sustainable characteristics. For example, a blend of cotton and lyocell requires a lot of water, a blend of polyester and lyocell isn’t biodegradable, a blend of silk and lyocell isn’t vegan, and so on. We recommend that you choose carefully what to purchase.
  Fabric blends are most common at fashion fashion brands, especially blending with polyester to keep the prices low. Did you know that 84% of fast fashion clothing and accessories contain polyester or other synthetic materials. If quality is an important factor for you when it comes to clothing, you might want to read our post Is Fast Fashion Clothing Actually Low Quality?
• Use of natural resources: it’s true, lyocell comes from trees that are mainly harvested sustainably… but did you know that over 150 million trees are cut down and turned into fabric every year? Obviously, not all of them are used for lyocell, but this fiber also contributes to draining natural resources. Here one should remember the golden Latin saying: «In medio stat virtus» or “the right position is in the middle”. Our tip is to always consider upcycling, clothes swaps, thrifting, and secondhand over buying new clothes.

Lyocell vs cotton: which is more sustainable?

When it comes to lyocell, it’s usually compared to both regular and organic cotton as they all have, for example, high absorption properties and are perfect for dyeing. What’s the most sustainable alternative? Spoiler alert! We much prefer lyocell to both regular and organic cotton.

According to us, lyocell is preferable to cotton both concerning the manufacturing process and the performance of the products because:

• Lyocell uses 20% less water in production than regular cotton. Indeed, eucalyptus trees can grow literally almost anywhere and don’t require any irrigation while cotton needs more than five times the land than eucalyptus trees and a lot more water. 
• Lyocell manufacturing process is shorter and more efficient and uses less energy too.
• It’s also true that, compared to the regular one, organic cotton doesn’t require pesticides or fertilizers to grow, it uses much less water, and overall scores higher in environmental sustainability. But lyocell has other characteristics that still make us prefer it to cotton. For example:
  • It feels much softer and smoother from day one
  • It’s long-lasting and durable with better resistance to pilling
  • It’s cool and breathable and wicks away moisture
  • It’s wrinkle-resistant

But the best is yet to come! We’ve saved the main reasons why we love lyocell so much to the end!

What does lyocell look and feel like?

Lyocell is great for clothing. It’s soft yet elastic and smooth to the touch and even basics and essentials really look (and feel!) luxurious once worn. It’s as soft as silk and as strong as polyester with hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties, which is amazing for underwear and beddings and perfect for people with skin sensitivity or prompt to irritation. Lyocell is also 50% more absorbent than cotton and has excellent temperature regulation properties, which makes it great for activewear.

As for care, lyocell sometimes requires hand washing, while other times you can just wash it in your washing machine on a delicate cycle. It’s always best to wash at 30 degrees (or less) to reduce emissions and costs but also to protect your clothes and extend their life cycle. Never forget to read the labels to know how to properly take care of your lyocell garments.

In conclusion, lyocell clothes hardly shrink and generally don’t wrinkle… and so you don’t even need to iron them! It’s a dream come true, isn’t it?

Sources:

• https://lyocell.info/#whats
• https://www.imarcgroup.com/lyocell-fiber-market
• https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/lyocell-fabric
• https://www.fabricromance.ie/blogs/journal/everything-you-need-to-know-about-tencel-and-modal
• https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/IP_00_1410
• https://goodonyou.eco/fashions-footprint-forests/